Japan Rider: The Blog

Yesterday was the 30th – and my 4th – annual Yamanakako Road Race, which featured 13,600 runners.

Yamanakako is one of the beautiful Fuji Five Lakes, and is one of the nicest runs I’ve ever done. Running the 13.9 km around the lake, on mostly flat terrain, and with lovely scenery the entire route, makes this run a true pleasure and, though yesterday was sort of chilly, I thoroughly enjoyed every single kilometre!

Map of the race:

View Yamanakako Road Race in a larger map

What made this race even more enjoyable was that we, very fortunately and at the very last minute, got a hotel very close to the race registration and starting line. We do live close enough, and have our own transportation, so could have gone up on the morning of the race. However – that would have required a very early start, sitting in traffic, hoping to get a parking place anywhere near the race area, and then waiting a few hours for the race to begin. The hotel turned the agony into a luxury.

To be honest, with Brian’s foot pain, and my recent laziness, I was even debating about whether I would run or not this year, so I only finally booked the Hotel Seikei ( ?????) on Friday. I’m sure that they must have had a cancellation, as that is the only explanation for our good fortune in getting an affordable place, with a nice tatami room and a deep, hot shared bath, so very close to the race.

Although  Brian’s Morton’s Neuroma (damaged nerve in his foot), which still is not cured at all, vetoed his participation this year, he joined me anyway as moral support and cameraman. Having cozy accommodation, we made the most of our weekend and took the motorbikes up to the lake. The weather has been cool lately, and because the lake is in the mountains in Yamanashi Prefecture, the temperature was downright cold over the weekend. By the time we finished riding through  the sublime but icy fog and rain of the mountains, we were happy to arrive out the Seikei and take a hot bath to get the chill out of our bones before venturing out to for me to pre-register for the race and then for us to find some dinner.

As I mentioned, the race, though a chilly 8ºC, was really enjoyable. My time was about the same as last year – about 1h and 40 minutes or so (I’ll know more when the results are posted). And, here’s where the hotel really came in handy – not only were we permitted to keep our bikes in the hotel parking lot, eliminating any concern over looking for parking, but we were invited to come back after the race for a hot bath and a 1,000 yen buffet lunch.

Peeking into our room at Hotel Seikei.

Chilly with Cloudy Skies

Walking to the Race - Notice the 8 degrees!

These races always have some people in costume...

And more dressup...

Heading to the Finish Line in my new lime green running jacket

A few years ago, Encyclopedia Britannica had a promotion, offering a free one-year subscription to their website to those who qualified as a web publisher. We applied, and Japan Rider.com qualified! Very awesome. Even more awesome, though, is that we’ve continued to qualify for the free subscription each year, and being a ‘subscriber’, we can share complete articles with our readers.

For today,I’ll share an article about Shizuoka Prefecture (sorry, little Susono still doesn’t get a mention):

http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/541233/Shizuoka

I don’t use Britannica often, but I will try to remember and make use of the resource when I can.

Ebook Readers have really taken off over the last couple of years, and of course, as an avid reader, I paid attention.  But, like many true readers, I was not really attracted to ‘electronic books’, as to me, there could be no replacement for the feeling of the paper in my fingers, and the sound of turning pages.

BUT – I do recognize some of the benefits of a E-Reader, immediate gratification when it comes to getting my hands on reading material being one of them. Also, the ability to carry around over a thousand ‘books’ in one small package was a plus, and had me thinking more and more about getting myself an electronic reader. Last week, I gave in to the hype and bought an Amazon Kindle 2.

Yesterday I spent my day lounging in my za-isu (floor chair), just reading a mystery novel on my Kindle.

The verdict? I really love it. I love having online 3G access wherever I go, and being able to download new books or magazines from the Kindle store on a whim. I also get the Mainichi newspaper delivered directly to the Kindle every day – way cool

That said, however, I still say there is no true replacement for a solid, paper and ink book. While I love my Kindle and the cool new technology, I will not ever totally give up my good old-fashioned paper-back novels!

Reading the Newspaper on my Kindle

As a warm front moved into Japan, we couldn’t have asked for a better Saturday.

Brian and I got a medium-early start, driving up to the Yamanimi Rindo, a nearby quiet fireroad that runs along the mountain ridge of Hakone. With Brian’s foot feeling slightly better due to a cortizone shot, we ran 5 hilly kilometres at a comfortable pace before taking the truck off road to a flat, secluded spot where we lied in the sun and read books for a while.

When the clock struck noon, we decided to leave our little retreat, and made our way to the Gotemba Kogen, our favourite beer hall.

As I’ve mentioned before, the Kogen, actually now called Toki-no-Sumika, is something of a resort complex. It has several restaurants, a couple of onsen (spas), sports fields, walking paths through short patches of woods, and a sprawling lawn with picnic benches, as well as other facilities and bakeries and… you get the idea.

Ten years ago, when I first moved to Susono, the Kogen was a delightful place. There were fewer restaurants, and there was even a stable with horses. The lawn on which we continue to enjoy our beers used to be green grass and cherry trees. The cherry trees remain, but the grass was long ago torn up and the ground was then bricked. Additionally, where the lawn once was an open expanse of space, the owners of the Kogen somehow saw fit to totally uglify the space by putting up tents with yellow roofs, and a gigantic ‘bird cage’, complete with lights, surrounding  a cheesy man-made concrete fountain that has, yes, fake swans perched on the edge. So sad. However – despite the sense of loss we feel, we do still love the place. Busses regularly carry people in from Tokyo and other areas of Japan just to enjoy the Kogen food and beer, and we are very lucky to have it so nearby.

Yesterday, after running and sunning, we found a picnic bench in the sun, and got a couple of German beers and sausage from the beer stall.

Brian and Beer

The warmth of the day also brought out some insect visitors:

Red Beetle

Beetle that we at first thought was a wasp

So, around Wednesday, I stepped on my bathroom scale for the first time in a while, and the numbers that appeared were, well, unbelievable. So unbelievable, in fact, that I turned off the scale to reset it, then tried again, with the same result. I then carried the little betrayer of a machine into the kitchen, where I placed it on solid flooring rather than carpet and got the same results.

Yes, it’s true I’ve been consuming tons of calories. And yes, also true that my activity level had dropped quite a bit recently. And, I have to admit, my clothes are a little tighter. But still!

Anyway, the shock was enough that I am officially on a diet. It is a simple diet – the goal is to consume fewer calories than I burn.

Of course, I won’t stick to it rigidly, I’m sure. Today is Brian’s birthday! We will most likely go out somewhere nice for dinner tonight or tomorrow, where, despite my new diet, we will surely indulge in some scrumptious food and drink.

The spring weather, with earlier sunrises and later sunsets, lends itself to more outdoor activity, such as running. However, Brian’s Morton’s Neuroma has worsened, and requires another doctor consultation. Hopefully they will do surgery rather than take the ‘let’s wait and see’ approach this time.

So, Brian’s pain in the foot is keeping him mostly off his feet (no running, no hiking, no real walking – or any other rigorous foot-involved activity). As for me, I’m finally breaking out of my cold-weather/bleak morning induced laziness and have started running again in the mornings before work, and have even taken to long walks after work.

Though I’ve only been out for a walk a few times, I’ve been spending about an hour each outing walking through the rice paddies and in the mountains that surround our neighborhood.

Before last week, I didn’t really ‘get’ walking. Running or biking certainly burn more calories rather than just a stroll in the park – so why not run or bike? However, walking at a brisk pace is better than sitting on the sofa for sure, and I also see now that the benefits go beyond just physical fitness. I find, after a long day cooped up at the office, a long, pleasant walk away from road traffic, is refreshing for the mind as well as the body. As I walk, I can almost feel the cloudiness lift from my brain, the weightiness move from my mind.

And, the scenery is nice, too!

Meditative Cat

Flooded Rice Paddies

Ducks in a Rice Paddy

Although today is back to work, we made the most of relaxing and biking and sunning during the holiday.

On one sunny afternoon, I took my Estrella up the little-known back road to Yamanakako in Yamanashi prefecture.

Yamanakako and Mt. Fuji

Estrella at Yamanakako

What a great getaway! Though we only spent two nights and three days away, we had a great time down on the west coast of Izu!

We decided to make our ‘home base’ in the little village of Toi, which has a small fishing port, a nice beach, and awesome sunsets over the Pacific ocean. Though it could have easily been a day trip to Toi and back, we really wanted to get away for a bit, and also spend a couple of pleasant days exploring the coast of Nishi-Izu (west side of peninsula) on our motorcycles. The roads around that side of Izu are curvy, mountain as well as coastal roads that are also less trafficked at this time of year, which made for some fun riding, over the mountain ridges and along the coast, through fishing villages and sandy beaches.

Here’s a map of the area we stayed:

View Larger Map
The minshuku that we found, the Kikusui (??), was also really fantastic and we will definitely stay there again. Nestled on a quiet side street of the village, this Japanese style inn offered friendly service, a (very!) large tatami room, and a mountain view. Most importantly, since we love Japanese onsens (baths), this place also had a great indoor and outdoor onsen! We spent two nights here, using the days to explore other villages and views along the coast.

Kikusui Minshuku

Indoor bath at Kikusui (women's)

Rotenburo (outdoor bath) at Kikusui

I highly recommend the Kikusui minshuku. Call them to make a reservation – 0558-98-0062

Though we often opt for the meals-included option when we stay at minshuku or ryokan, this time we went the less pricey route, and decided to explore local restaurants for dinner. After a lot of walking around on our first night in town, we stumbled upon a small, homey izakaya (Japanese pub) just around the corner from our minshuku. Called Hatsune (??), the place was run by an older woman and her daughter. The menu featured some of our favourite izakaya fare, such as yakitori and kawa-ebi, and was delicious!

Izakaya Hatsune

Inside the Izakaya

Yakitori (grilled chicken skewers)

During our daytime explorations, when we took our motorcycles into other villages and towns, we had the chance to sample other local fare; of course, since these are all sea-side fishing towns, most of that fare was, well, fish! In the town of Ugusu, Brian spied a seafood ‘BBQ’ restaurant called kaisenyaki Kanejou (??? ????? – check out their website here http://www.kanejyou.com/). Like yaki-niku restaurants, this place has grills on the table and you grill your fish yourself. We got one of the fish sets, which included shrimp, squid, tuna, and shell fish – lots of protein and healthier than grilled pork!

Shrimp and Squid on the grill

For the duration of our trip, the weather was perfectly wonderful. The days were warm and sunny, and the evenings were cool and pleasant. And as this was the sunset side of the peninsula, offered gorgeous sunset views over the ocean.

Silhouette statue in Toi

Sunset over Toi pier

Another sunny day here – this is the first nearly fully sunny Golden Week I think we’ve ever had! And it’s an even more delightful day because, despite it being peak travel season when last minute accommodation is scarce, we did find a cute-looking minshuku on the west side of the Izu peninsula – so that is where we are heading today!

It’s not so far from home at all, but is a wonderful beach area with good motorbiking to boot.

I’ll post more about the minshuku and general Izu area when we return!

We are now in the middle of our laid-back Golden Week holiday.

Today, Sunday, dawned gloriously as the sun came over the Hakone mountain range before 5:30 a.m. We were happy to wake up, spend a bit of time enjoying morning tea and coffee, then getting our motorbikes ready for a little ride.

We decided to stay mostly local – but luckily, we live near some of the nicest motorbiking roads around. We cruised down to Mishima, then up Route 1 to Hakone, where we took the Ashinoko Skyline (formerly known as the Hakone Skyline!), a fast-moving, curvy mountain road, back toward Susono, then down a narrow winding road from the Jurigi Pass to our favourite fireroad, and then along to Gotemba, eventually ending at the Gotemba Kogen where we had some lunch.

Our Route:

View skyline loop in a larger map

Brian's VRX on the Skyline